Posts tagged ‘Debenham and Freebody’

August 31, 2025

More Antiques in Department Stores – Debenham & Freebody

A recent addition to the corpus of antique dealer ephemera that the antique dealer project continues to gather is a rare sales catalogue produced by the London department store Debenham & Freebody in about 1910. The small paper catalogue (7.5 inches wide by 10 inches high) has 25 pages packed with images and listings of antiques that Debenham’s offered for sale.

Debenham & Freebody antiques sale catalogue, c.1910. Photograph, Antique Dealer Research Project, University of Leeds, 2025.

The Debenham and Freebody catalogue lists 246 items for sale, almost half of which are antique textiles, lace and embroideries, reflecting the keen interest in such objects in the early 20th century. Indeed, in the Introduction in the opening pages of the sales catalogue the writer emphasises the significance of women as consumers of antique textiles – ‘Ladies who are interested in home needle craft are informed that we have a very large number of quite inexpensive fragments and small pieces of brocades and galons suitable for making up into all kinds of fancy articles.’ Beyond these ‘fragments’ there were many rare items offered for sale, including rare ‘stumpwork’ embroideries and samples of antique lace (see below); the ‘Stuart Embroidered Picture, Subject, ‘Judgement of Solomon’ had a hefty price of £35.0.0. (equivalent at the time to as much as £28,000). The embroidery was also illustrated on the front of the sales catalogue, (see above) emphasising its importance.

Debenham & Freebody antiques sale catalogue, c.1910. Photograph, Antique Dealer Research Project, University of Leeds, 2025.

It seems likely likely that the ‘Stuart Embroidery’ illustrated in the Debenham & Freebody sales catalogue is the same one that is currently in the St. Louis Art Museum in Missouri in the USA. The subject is of course the same, but the addition of seed pearls around the necks of the two female figures to the centre and to the right suggests that the Debenham & Freebody embroidery and the St. Louis Art Museum example are the same. The St. Louis Museum of Art embroidery no longer has the giltwood frame (which was much later than the embroidery). The provenance for the St. Louis Art Museum embroidery suggests it was given to the museum in 1972 by Mrs. William A. McDonnell (Carolyn Vandergrift Cherry McDonnell), who married William A. McDonell (1894-1988) in about 1919; Carolyn’s husband was a prominent railroad executive and banker. It is not known who McDonnell purchased the embroidery from, but it is likely that it passed through other hands before it ended up in the USA.

The Judgement of Solomon, embroidery, 17th century. 7.1972, the Gift of Mrs. William A. McDonnell. Photograph, St. Louis Art Museum, Missouri, USA.

Other pages illustrate fragments suitable for embellishing antique furniture, or for display as relics of past crafts. The ‘Fine Petit Point Chair Back’ (£4.10.0) and ‘Chair Seat’ (£4.10.0) (see below) would potentially enhance an 18th century antique chair; or the ‘Sixteenth Century Border’ (£28.0.0.) (below) would be a fine addition to an antique oak interior, so fashionable at the time.

Debenham & Freebody antiques sale catalogue, c.1915. Photograph, Antique Dealer Research Project, University of Leeds, 2025.

18th century, and even early 19th century needlework pictures (see below), also seemed to be very popular, keying into the 18th century and ‘Regency’ revivals that were generating interest in the period.

Debenham & Freebody antiques sale catalogue, c.1915. Photograph, Antique Dealer Research Project, University of Leeds, 2025.

As previous blog post have indicated – see our post on a sales catalogue produced by the furniture retailer Hampton & Sons (see April 2021) and the earlier Guest Blog Post by our friend Chris Coles on antiques and department stores (see November 2014) – from the early 1900s department stores were key locations for the sales of antiques. Debenham & Freebody for example opened their department store in Wigmore Street, London in about 1909 and had an antiques department in the store right from the start. Their antiques department seemed to have been a great success and they moved the department to a dedicated and larger section in their Welbeck Street store in 1923.

Debenham & Freebody, Wigmore Street, c.1917. Photograph copyright Historic England Archive.

The rare Debenham & Freebody sales catalogue is a significant addition to the antique dealer archives, and will be joining the other antique dealer archives at the Brotherton Library Special Collections at the University of Leeds in due course.

Mark

November 2, 2014

Some surprising sources for antiques

One of the more interesting side effects of the constant fluctuations in taste and fashion in relation to the antiques trade is the emergence (and subsequent disappearance) of antiques departments in some slightly unexpected places.

Those of you who have been collectors/connoisseurs/enthusiasts for some time will not need to be told that Asprey and Harrods were once very serious players on the London antiques scene. Both firms were members of the BADA (British Antiques Dealers Association) and exhibited at the celebrated Grosvenor House fair every year. They carried extensive stocks of furniture, textiles, silver, jewellery and porcelain etc. and traded at the very top of the market. Both firms had always been associated with luxury goods of course but neither were founded as antiques dealerships as such. Harrods does still have a small antiques section in its store but, as this image from 1951 shows, at one stage the department was very extensive indeed.

Harrods 1951

Asprey’s antiques department was the starting point for many celebrated dealers including silver specialist, and Antiques Roadshow expert, Alastair Dickenson who worked there between 1983 and 1996. Sadly the department is no longer operational though the firm does still retail antiquarian books. The image below is from an advert published in 1951.

Asprey 1951

More surprising still are the following two firms that also had antiques departments in the past. Firstly Debenham and Freebody (yes, that Debenham’s). I bow to the greater experience of others but until I saw this advert from the Connoisseur in 1916 I had no idea that they had ever sold antiques. The advert below suggests that the antiques department was limited to textiles but what textiles! Some incredible examples of needlework including one piece possibly worked by Mary, Queen of Scots. Debenham’s flagship store straddling Wigmore Street and Oxford Street is still in place of course but unfortunately the collection of needlework is not.

Debenhams 1916

Finally we come to one of the country’s most prestigious retailers but one that I certainly wouldn’t associate with antiques. Fortnum and Mason has long been a foodie’s destination but, apparently, in the post-war period (this advert is from 1951 once again) you could also expect to see a fine selection of antiques. What I find particularly interesting about this advert is that the firm is taking a noticeably different approach to those illustrated above by concentrating on “moderate prices” as the primary selling point. That having been said, the beautifully laid-out gallery setting certainly leaves the viewer in no doubt that, however “moderate” the prices may have been, there are objects of real quality on sale here.

Forthum and Mason 1951

Who knows, perhaps during the next antiques boom we’ll witness the birth of the IKEA or Tesco fine antiques department…

Chris Coles,

Project volunteer.

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